San Evaristo

My new contract starts on Monday so we wanted to get to the next coverage area before then. We left La Paz early on Friday and it was about 55 nm to San Evaristo, the first good anchorage north of the Islands off La Paz. It was the start of a new adventure, and the perfect day for it. After pulling up anchor we were able to hoist sails immediately and sail down the channel wing on wing.

While we had enjoyed La Paz and met many people we were excited for the summer in the Sea of Cortez and the challenges we had been told we would face.

We managed to sail for the first 2 hours out of La Paz as far as Espiritu Santo but the wind died quickly and despite hoisting the spinnaker we were only able to hold it for a few minutes! So with 40 miles still to cover we started the motor and headed off into the glassy expanse in front of us. We had been told that the hills and mountains along this stretch of the coast are extremely varied and beautiful.

They certainly are. The rock changes colour in beautiful layers, sometimes parallel to the water, other times sloped off on an angle rising from the water. It is definitely a spectacular section of coast and this made the motoring quite pleasant.

A few hours later we were engulfed by a massive pod of dolphins. They strayed from their path to come and hang out with us. They were all around the boat for well over half an hour. We lowered the swim ladder donned our masks, taking turns hanging on as the boat slowly motored forward. On occasion we could see them swim past, but visibility was not great so we headed up to the bow of the boat to enjoy them.

After about half an hour of playing around us they headed off to the south, so we turned and headed north. The weather was still hot, sunny and not a breath of wind. We were lucky enough to spy several whales off in the distance, but they dove under before we could get too close.

Mid afternoon we arrived in San Evaristo still under motor. The water was like a mirror.

The electronic charts are not very accurate in these waters so every anchorage we enter will have to be done carefully using the depth-sounder and our eye. Fortunately the water is now crystal clear and turquoise.

It is a beautiful anchorage - with a very small fishing village - the cruising guide say 77 people live here. They get there electricity from a generator and have to run a desalinator for water. We felt very protected in the bay with big, beautiful mountains surrounding the village. At sunrise and sunset the colors are amazing. Across the channel is another couple of islands - a beautiful place to anchor!

It’s hotter than hot, so last night I (Ashley) slept in my hammock on the bow. It was totally flat, but just enough breeze that I could sleep easily. The stars were amazing - the Milky Way was so milky! You could see the glow of La Paz to the South, but the sky was just filled with stars. I fell asleep too quickly to see any shooting stars.